- 1. Stripping
All hardware, glass, cushions and other non-wood parts of the item are removed and placed in a customer parts bin, labeled with the customer’s name. Pieces are partially disassembled such as: removing doors, table leaves and drop-leaves, table runners, etc.
Finish and stain or paint is stripped chemically with our Flow Over system (as much as the wood will allow). The Flow Over system is akin to a shower for your furniture. This usually does not damage the wood, veneer, or the glued joints. We do not “dip” or aggressively sand, as it tends to cause damage.
For the DIY customer we will strip your piece for you. Stripping cost is a portion of the cost.
- 2. Sanding
Surfaces are thoroughly washed and air dried for a minimum of 24 hours. A light sanding is done for raised grain and to prep the surface for stain.
- 3. Fill
Deep gouges are filled with a two part epoxy putty. After staining we then faux paint the grain to hide the repair and top coat to with lacquer to match the color and sheen.
- 4. Refinishing
Stain is applied to help maintain the moisture in the wood and to enhance the color and natural beauty. We have many stain colors to choose from, and we can custom color mix our stain to achieve the desired color. We can always go darker, but often cannot go lighter in stain color.
We generally spray a lacquer finish on all pieces that have been refinished or refurbished at our shop. We also offer a teak oil finish and custom colors suspended in lacquer. We do not use varethane, polyurethane, conversion varnish, marine varnish, or brush on paints.
Please remember that any new finish takes at least 30 DAYS TO CURE and reach maximum hardness. We recommend that you use extra care during this time period as the finish is more susceptible to scratching or other damage.
- 3. Fill